Dolce & Gabbana at Milan Fashion Week Fall 2012
Rapier with Scabbard
Dated: 1575-1583
Geography: made in Dresden, Saxony, Germany, Europe
Medium: engraved steel [blade]; blackened iron, pierced and engraved silver, wood, silver wire [hilt]; pierced and engraved silver, wood, leather [scabbard]
Measurements: pommel: 2 ½ × 2 13/16 inches (6.3 × 7.1 cm); blade: 11/16 × 42 3/8 inches (1.8 × 107.6 cm); width (quillons): 9 15/16 inches (25.2 cm); depth: 5 13/16 inches (14.8 cm); scabbard: 2 ½ inches × 7/8 inches × 3 feet 2 ½ inches, 8.1 ounces (6.4 × 2.3 × 97.8 cm, 230g)
The blade of the sword was made by bladesmith Andrea Ferrara, Italian (active Belluno), active 1550 - 1583. The sword features silver mounts of rapier and scabbard probably by silversmith Wendel unter den Linden, German (active Dresden), active 1566 - 1593, died before 1610.
Source: Copyright © 2016 Philadelphia Museum of Art
a quick tutorial on shading (with graphite) by yours truly. this is the process I use for shading, and there are tons more out there if this one doesn’t work for you.
MATERIALS USED
1 HB graphite pencil
1 2B graphite pencil
1 4B graphite pencil
1 blending stub (the bigger the better)
1 plastic eraser (white)
1 kneaded eraser (grey)
now why do I use two erasers? well, they’re very different from one another, and each serves their own purpose.
the plastic eraser is harder, and when it erases, it erases everything. the kneaded eraser is soft, and it doesn’t completely erase everything all at once. you can use it to pick up some of the graphite and leave some behind, lightening (but not totally erasing) your shading. plus, the kneaded eraser is so soft you can mold it, and it doesn’t leave pencil shavings. if one end gets too used, you can just stretch it out, and it’s as good as new.
REFERENCE USED
now lets get this started, shall we?
STEP ONE
scribble lightly over your drawing with either an HB (aka a regular #2 pencil) or 2B pencil. you don’t have to be extremely neat, but do it light and nice enough so it can still be erased/you can still see the original lines underneath.
STEP TWO
take your blending stub (the wider the better, and if you don’t have one, use a tissue) and rub in the opposite direction of the scribbling. don’t press too hard, because it might streak/not work if you do.
STEP THREE
erase the extra shading around the edges (using the plastic eraser.).
STEP FOUR
roughly add your darks
STEP FIVE
roughly add your lights by erasing with the kneaded eraser
STEP SIX
add your finishing touches (secondary shadows, background, etc)
(I reshaped the sides, added more lights, and added the background shadow)
and voila! you just did some shading!
Except for sewing a teeny bit where you attach the ribbon, this is a no sew DIY. For a huge archive of excellent DIY sweatshirt restyles go here.
– I know I’ll screw up. But I’ll keep trying as long as you let me
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Hey, friends!
It’s Meg! Sorry about the late TUTOR TUESDAY, but I’m here! Today we take a look at drawing environments! This uses our last tutorial on perspective, so if you haven’t check that out! If you have any recommendations, send ‘em in here or my personal! Keep practicing, have fun, and I’ll see you next week!