Ben Wootten

Sword and Staff Poses

A workable fuck-ton of male archery references (per request).

[Please note that the top two images of the white statues are for weaker bows; typically, the bow will have a stronger pull weight. The front arm would be fully extended and straight, and the hand gripping the arrow would not be pinching the arrow itself.]

Imperial Guard Officer Horse Grenadier Sword

Dated: 1811

Maker: Lefevbre Paris

Culture: French

Measurements: overall length 1.17m; weight 1.964kg; weight without scabbard 1.28kg

The sword features a brass and leather scabbard similar to the second model for the Horse Grenadier troop sword. This particular model could have also belonged to the Empress’s Dragoons or to an officer of the Cuirassiers since the steel blade is straight and not curved. In any case it did belong to an Heavy Cavalry Officer from Napoléon Army. It is marked with the manufacturer’s name “Lefevbre Paris”, while the scabbard tip is marked "ND”.

Source: Copyright © 2016 Sword Collection

You can see and download these in bigger resolution HERE.  Take them apart, study, EDUCATE YOURSELF \ o /  And be sure to check out the project that is MastersOfAnatomy!

You can actually add your own images into it if you want to compare more dynamic characters or use alternate poses. And I’ll show you how owo

1. You go on the site:

2. Left click the image and scroll down to inspect:

3. You see those two links down there? Those are the image links for the sillouhettes, just add your own image (must be a url, i personally like imgur):

4. And bingo bango! You got your own custom images to compare heights with! I hope this was helpful owo

girlsss

AllPose Book 16, Sword Guy Poses B - Buy it here!

People From Classic Paintings Inserted Into Modern City Life

(If you haven't answered this before) how do you do shading?

i havent !! and. i cant say this is gonna be any help but heres some of the things i try to keep in mind when im shading stuff

so youve got your flats on your initial drawing, the thing thats getting the business

then youve got find out where the light is coming from ! your light source is gonna determine where all the highlights and shadows are cast, and while it doesnt have to be EXACT, its generally a good rule to keep it pretty consistent through the drawing - sometimes youll probably have to deal with multiple sources, and each ones gonna be casting its own light and shadow ( and color by extension )

the intensity and sharpness of your shadows generally also reflects the brightness or closeness of the light ! basically if you wanna make something look BRIGHT, you gotta make sure the shadows are dark enough to get the idea across

so the actual shading part - the way i shade is by getting a brush on a very low opacity, picking the color i want for shadows and then layering the strokes over and over until i get about the darkness i want ( because im LAZY and i dont actually work with complex backgrounds a bunch, i can usually get away with drawing the shadows directly on the locked flat colors layer so theres nothing to clean up after )

afterwards i clean it up a little if i need to, add highlights while keeping in mind where the light is coming from, and start on the Detail Work ( it also might be helpful to keep in mind that highlights dont always go on the EDGE of things, but rather where the curve of something is - where the light would catch. this can help add a little depth and make flat things look rounded out ! )

and THEN its basically me zooming into the drawing at least 200%, putting another layer over the top of everything, and going over the outlines with a tiny brush so the harsh black is mostly gone ! there shouldnt be anything along the edge thats darker than the darkest part of the shadow ( with exceptions like the eyes and nostrils )

and thats mostly it ! i picked red for the shadow color, but picking your shading ( and flats ! ) based on the colors in your background can go a LONG way into making it seem like your character is actually in the environment

reflective light is also an important thing to keep in mind when choosing shadows and highlights - light and color doesnt always just hit an object and stay there, and even in the shade there could be light bouncing back from stuff like water or grass creating smaller, subtle highlights along the edges of things close by

not everything reflects the same way either ! something like a piece of wood is going to react differently than say, a metal ball

so you get your light source, basic highlights and shadows, not bad ! but then theres ALSO the light reflecting from the rest of the environment along the edge of the ball, and then finally the color from both the dragon and the ball reflecting a bit on each other

 honestly though these arent RULES of drawing and more just guidelines i work with sometimes, and maybe your style of shading and highlighting looks completely different than this and thats ok !! - im still figuring a bunch of stuff out about light and reflections myself, and the great thing about art is that you can do whatever the hell you want with it